Wednesday, June 20, 2012
Wednesday, June 20, 2012 | Posted by Rebecca Y. | | Edit Post
The first step is to print and cut out your pattern in the size you intend to sew. Lay your pattern down on the fabric you will be using for the outside of the bodice. With a marking pen or pencil, add seam allowance. In my example I am using 1/4 an inch. You do not need to add seam allowance to the sides of the bodice.
|Mark your seam allowance around the pattern pieces.|
|Draw the added seam allowance around the pattern pieces.|
Once you have drawn your seam allowance, cut your pattern pieces along the new line. Take your cut pieces from the outer fabric and lay them on the inside fabric and trace and cut around them.
* In the picture below, the fabric already had a seam sewn in it on the right side. I was repurposing it from another project that did not go so well. I moved the bodice over to avoid the seam. At this point however, you are tracing the bodice that you added the seam allowance to, so you do not need to add any more when cutting your second set of bodice pieces.
|Use the newly cut outside pieces to trace and cut the inside fabric.|
TIP: to line up the shoulder seams, pin right on the seams of the outer and inner pieces to line them up and keep together while sewing.
This is also the time to add your sewing label or size tag. If you are using a flat, sew on label, the inside fabric along the back of the neckline is a common place to add a tag. Most people choose to use a tight zig-zag stitch to keep the edges from being scratchy. In this example, I added a foldover satin label placed between the two layers along the neckline. If using a foldover label, make sure the printed side is facing the outside fabric piece.
|Sew the inner and outer pieces, right sides together along the neckline and arm openings. Make sure you use the same amount of seam allowance that you added to the pattern.|
After sewing the inside and outside pieces at the neckline and arm openings, clip the curves carefully to avoid nicking the seam. Pinking shears are great for this purpose. Press the seams flat with an iron.
|Clip along the curves of the seams careful not to cut the thread.|
Turn the bodice right side out and again press with an iron. Then topstitch along the neckline and arm openings.
|Once the bodice is turned right side out, press with an iron and topstitch. |
|Topstitch then sew the side pieces, right sides together.|
Completed dress with a lined bodice.
Thank you for reading. I hope this tutorial was helpful. There will be more tutorials on embellishing a dress pattern in the near future so stay tuned! In the meantime, check out Elysium on Etsy for more great patterns.
- Rebecca Y.