Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Tutorial: How To Make A Lined Bodice



This is the first of several tutorials on how to embellish a simple dress pattern.  In these tutorials, I will be using the Good Deeds Dress by Elysium.  The Good Deeds Dress was designed specifically for charity sewing and made to be quick and easy to sew.  One of the nice things about this pattern is it is easy to embellish and create new looks with just a few extra steps.  This tutorial will show you how to line the bodice instead of using bias tape.  In other words, you will will be using two layers of fabric and then turning and topstitching with no exposed seams.  There are a few different ways to make a lined bodice. This is a simplified version that should not take very long and fairly easy to complete.

The first step is to print and cut out your pattern in the size you intend to sew. Lay your pattern down on the fabric you will be using for the outside of the bodice.  With a marking pen or pencil, add seam allowance.  In my example I am using 1/4 an inch. You do not need to add seam allowance to the sides of the bodice.

Mark your seam allowance around the pattern pieces.
Draw the added seam allowance around the pattern pieces.

Once you have drawn your seam allowance, cut your pattern pieces along the new line. Take your cut pieces from the outer fabric and lay them on the inside fabric and trace and cut around them.

* In the picture below, the fabric already had a seam sewn in it on the right side.  I was repurposing it from another project that did not go so well.  I moved the bodice over to avoid the seam.  At this point however, you are tracing the bodice that you added the seam allowance to, so you do not need to add any more when cutting your second set of bodice pieces.

Use the newly cut outside pieces to trace and cut the inside fabric.

Once you have the outside and inside pieces cut, sew the shoulder seams together for each set per the original instructions.  Press the seams.  You should have two sets of the bodice (3 pieces each) sewn together at the shoulder seams.  Place the outside and inside pieces with right sides together and pin along the neckline and curve of the arm openings. Pin as much as needed to account for the curves, also know as "easing" the fabrics together.  Sew where you have pinned making sure to sew with the added seam allowance. 

TIP: to line up the shoulder seams, pin right on the seams of the outer and inner pieces to line them up and keep together while sewing.

This is also the time to add your sewing label or size tag.  If you are using a flat, sew on label, the inside fabric along the back of the neckline is a common place to add a tag.  Most people choose to use a tight zig-zag stitch to keep the edges from being scratchy.  In this example, I added a foldover satin label placed between the two layers along the neckline.  If using a foldover label, make sure the printed side is facing the outside fabric piece.

Sew the inner and outer pieces, right sides together along the neckline and arm openings.  Make sure you use the same amount of seam allowance that you added to the pattern.

After sewing the inside and outside pieces at the neckline and arm openings, clip the curves carefully to avoid nicking the seam.  Pinking shears are great for this purpose.  Press the seams flat with an iron.

Clip along the curves of the seams careful not to cut the thread.

Turn the bodice right side out and again press with an iron.  Then topstitch along the neckline and arm openings.

Once the bodice is turned right side out, press with an iron and topstitch.

The lined bodice is now complete.  Line your sides up and stitch together.  Proceed with adding the skirt per the original pattern instructions.

Topstitch then sew the side pieces, right sides together.

Completed dress with a lined bodice.


Thank you for reading. I hope this tutorial was helpful.   There will be more tutorials on embellishing a dress pattern in the near future so stay tuned!  In the meantime, check out Elysium on Etsy for more great patterns.




Saturday, May 26, 2012

And The Winners Are....


Thank you to everyone who entered my giveaway and participated in the Sew Mama Sew Giveaway Day event.  I had a lot of fun reading new blogs and the comments on my giveaway post. 

The winner for prize package #1 is: ♥Duff (comment made on May 23, 2012 7:52 PM)

The winner for prize package #2 is Beth (comment made on May 23, 2012 8:10 AM)

The winners have been sent an email and have 48 hours to claim their prize.  Thank you again to everyone who participated.  Check in from time to time for new tutorials and new giveaways. (hint, hint)


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Monday, May 21, 2012

It's A Giveaway!

The Giveaway is now Closed. Thank you! 
Winners will be announced Saturday morning.

It's been a long week and I have been up to my eyeballs counting new inventory of sewing labels that arrived last week.  Back in 2008 with the help of some of my online friends, I started designing sewing labels for the home sewist because the only ones I could find were less than cute or stylish at the fabric stores.  I wanted to have a wide selection of stylish and universal labels to add to my sewing projects, so why not just do it myself.  And so that is what I did and designing labels slowly turned into a business.  (I ran out of storage space.) Four years later, I'm still putting my designs on labels to share with the creative crafters out there in addition to my other artistic pursuits. 

Since I recently completed inventory on new designs, I thought I would try something different and do a giveaway on my blog. 

There are two prize packages comprised of two different groups of 25 labels.  Each group has 5 different designs of sewing labels. There is a mix of woven, flat and fold over labels as well as satin printed fold over labels.  There will be two separate giveaways consisting of 50 labels total in each drawing.  I have divided the labels into four "collections" with a different theme and designs in each group.  Click on the photos for a closer view.  Instructions are below on how to enter the giveaway.  I would love for you to follow this blog but it's not required.  I have several new tutorials in mind to share soon, so check back often.

The first two collections for Prize Package 1 :

"Hip Collection" Consists of 25 labels, five of each design.  All are woven labels.  The heart is a fold over style with a design on each side.
"Patterns Collection". Consists of 25 labels, five of each design.  Four out of the five are woven labels. The chevron labels on the top right are satin fold over.
The following two collections are for Prize Package 2:

The "Critters" Collection. Set of 25 total, five of each design. Twenty are flat, woven, sew on labels and five are satin printed fold over labels, (the bird).
"The Nature and Blooms Set"  Consists of 25 labels, five of each design. All are woven labels, the mushroom is a fold over style with a design on each side.
Side note: It is perfect for sewing into the seam of a messenger or tote style bag. 

 To participate,  Use the rafflecopter widget below to enter  leave a comment in the comment section telling me which collection you like the best and what you would use the labels on.

*One extra note - These labels have already been manufactured and cannot be altered in any way.  I can create a custom design for the purpose of being made into a clothing label, but I cannot make the actual label itself nor facilitate the making of the label.


I will be selecting TWO winners.  This giveaway will end on Friday, May 25th, 2012 at 5PM PDT.  Those outside of the USA are welcome to participate. I seem to have made almost every mistake possible yesterday when I posted this on the Sew Mama Sew site. I listed it under domestic shipping only but I will ship international.  I will announce the winners on Saturday, May 26th.



** This widget doesn't work with my blog format. Of course I find this out AFTER I set it up. I'm sorry.  Go ahead and leave a reply in the comment section. Everyone who has entered with the rafflecopter so far will still be counted. I'm going to shut it down and let you use the comments section.

a'>http://www.rafflecopter.com">a Rafflecopter giveaway


This promotion is in no way sponsored, endorsed or administered by, or associated with, Facebook, Blogger or any other groups or identities.
  • You must be 18 to enter.
  • VOID where prohibited.
  • You must leave a contact email if you reply to the post as a "no-reply", otherwise if selected, you will automatically be passed over and a new winner will need to be selected. 
  • If the winner does not claim their prize within 48 hours of being contacted, a new winner will be selected.
  • The prize package will be shipped within two business days once winners have claimed their prize. 
  • Once the winning item is mailed, it is out of my hands as far as liability and I cannot be held responsible for the item being lost or damaged. 
  • By participating in this contest, you release the host (Night Owl's Menagerie) from any type of liability.
Thank you for stopping by and thank you Sew Mama Sew. I'm looking forward to reading and discovering some great blogs this week.

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